You cannot escape forever having a layover in Frankfurt. Either you’ve done it, or it’s coming. If you’ve done it, you’ll eventually do it again. Frankfurt airport is the fourth-busiest in Europe, but it feels like the first. It’s smack in the center of Western Europe and the hub for everyplace you want to be besides Frankfurt. If Jesus Christ came back tomorrow, he’d still have to change planes in Frankfurt.
A few years ago, a friend and I had a ten-hour layover in Frankfurt on our way to Beijing. In a few months from now, I will have a six-hour layover there. It simply happens.
Frankfurt is a bit of a joke among travelers. I still remember a sentence from an old Rick Steves guide to Germany, “Whatever you do, don’t eat or sleep in Frankfurt”. Years, ago, a friend of mine traveling around Germany read that Frankfurt’s society was geared towards singles and so he hung out there for a week, with me constantly emailing him to get his ass to Munich, a real city. He stayed put, and was mostly bored.
On a ten-hour layover, however, almost any city is fine, and Frankfurt is not only rather pleasant, but it has some distinct advantages: luggage lockers, accessibility from the airport, and some neat areas that we’ll visit. Luckily, not many people from the airport are getting out in Frankfurt (they’re busy trying to leave), so immigration should be easy. In fact, the immigration officials may be surprised you’re going into Frankfurt.
So let’s go:
Luggage: For a handful of euro (4-5), the good people at the airport will store your carry-on luggage for the day. Terminal 1 has storage by the arrival hall B-1 (in the hallway, not easy to spot. We walked right by it). There’s an additional one on level 2, between B and C concourse. Terminal 2 has one on level 2 of concourse D.
Accessibility: The airport is on a commuter train line called the S-bahn, which will take you to the center in five, really only five, stops. Jump on lines S8 or S9 from the airport train station (Regionalbahnhof) in Terminal 1 (entrances in section A and B) in the direction of Offenbach Ost or Hanau (depending on the line). A round-trip ticket (buy it before you board) is about €9, but for two or more people, get a group ticket and save €. The journey takes about 15 minutes. There are buses into the city, but why would you do that?
Get off at Hauptwache, five stops from the airport, and make your way south, towards the river. A compass app or GPS will help. You’ll pass through some pedestrian and shopping areas, nice enough if you have time. You’ll pass by the church Paulskirche, on the way to the must-see area of Frankfurt, Römerberg.
This is the view you want, the one that screams “Germany!”
Römerberg is the photo that everyone shows of Frankfurt. It’s the old city center that looks medieval, the white timbered buildings, though they were reconstructed after the war. It’s tourist central, but it’s seriously a nice square, and you will probably feel happy there. Your photos will impress your office crush. A few cafes sit around, lots of seats on the square, and my they’re cute, but check prices carefully. Step then into the Alte Nikolaikirche, the church on the square’s south side, small but old and atmospheric.
If it’s later afternoon or beyond, you can keep going south one more block and you’re at the river. The riverbank’s not much, so take the pedestrian-only bridge Eiserne Steg (the only one around) across to the area of Sachsenhausen, known for its cafes and pubs. You’re on your own for that, but I’m sure you have it in you to thrive.
Anyone should want to hang out here
Or, take the passageway to the left of the Alte Nikolaikirche through a neat walkway that will give you some more photos, on your way past the art gallery to the Dom, the main cathedral towering over you, a quick walk. It’s a typical Euro-mega-cathedral, with a 95-meter tower that you can climb for a stellar view over a Euro-city that’s more vertical than they usually make them.
Afterwards, head straight north and find the Kleinmarkthalle, the indoor food market. It’s on Hasengasse street, and there are signs, but it’s not so obvious, so ask someone, preferably someone a bit overweight. To me, this is the main attraction of the city, and something is wrong with you if you don’t like it. 1,500 square meters of indoor space (so a perfect rainy day activity) full of food stands. Although there is regular produce, much of what’s for offer is perfectly fit for hipsters–fresh pasta, gourmet cheeses, baked goods, and the like. There are enough coffee and wine stands to bring anyone up or down. Bring cash. And then spend it. Go to the second floor for more wine stands, including one at the end with a balcony. In fact, you may just want to spend your entire layover here.
You will find something you like in the food market Kleinmarkthalle. I promise.
Afterwards, if you ever leave, head north two more blocks to the pedestrian street called the Zeil and turn left, towards the skyscrapers. Just walk slowly along this place, stopping anywhere you feel like it. A beer right about now would be nice. There’s plenty to see on this street. One such place is called Fressgass, about two blocks past that Hauptwache train stop (across from the Apple store). The official name is Grosse Bockenheimer Strasse, and it’s lined with all types of food stores.
Another block or so and you’ll come to the Opera house. In warmer weather, I’m certain there’s something going on here, along with food stands, as is correct. Turn left (south) to go through a small park, or turn around to get back to the Hauptwache S-banh station.
Besides being a cool building, there is always something going on by the Opera
To get back to the airport: obviously, jump on the S-banh again. If you’re not near the S-banh station, jump on the U-bahn (the regular urban city subway) and take it to a S-bahn connection station. Then take the S8 or S9 lines in the direction of Wiesbaden. For anything you’re not sure, just ask people “Airport?” with a dumb look on your face. Then continue on to your real destination, a better person.
Frankfurt layover map. Click for full size.
